San Sebastian – why a frosty reception can be a good, good thing

Okay, let’s be honest…

…we didn’t feel particularly welcomed by San Sebastian. If anything it was quite the opposite, with sneering locals passing by the queues of tourists that we (as Brits) enthusiastically joined ahead of dining in establishments such as Ganbara and Gandarias. Well our message to the locals is, you’re victims of your own success. Don’t serve mouth watering foie toast. Don’t serve perfectly sautéed seasonal mushrooms and elegant white asparagus alongside perfect steaks. Don’t free pour your glistening ‘vino locale’ that partners so, so perfectly with fresh anchovy pintxo. Don’t do these things and I won’t catch a 2 hour flight to try-it-all… *shrugs shoulders*

Is there any other reason to visit San Sebastián other than to dine endlessly and test an already challenged top button on the pantaloons?

Probably, but we didn’t get that far, nor really care. This is foodie town and the gastro-tourism scene is in full flow here.

Where to eat

There are endless blogs and articles online that list the “go-to” pintoxs bars and restaurants but, let’s be frank – it’s all good. Find comfort in that. Allow yourself to be surprised by doing little to no research prior to sinking a few cervezas somewhere and heading into the old town with an open mind and empty stomach. Do get the pig kidneys, ear, belly or whatever cut is being served up. Do get the sea urchin topped with caviar and the salted cod with padrón pepper toast. Go out of your way to find tripe and sea barnacles. Okay croquettes are cool but we’ve all had Tillman’s toasties; use this opportunity to step away from the familiar and infuse your pallet with new experiences, all of which are well washed down with wine lists that have true depth of squad.

The verdict

If your idea of fun is floating from pintxo bar to pintxo bar, eating with your eyes before diving into stacks of unique food creations while not paying over the odds for the pleasure then, congratulations, you’ve made it to Disneyland. If not and you’re wondering if there is anything else to do here, we’ve no idea.